They call it the Taupo Trap. Not that New Zealand’s largest lake actually sucks you in like some Australasian Bermuda Triangle (although covering an area of 616 sq km, it is capable of subsuming Singapore); but because, once you visit, you probably won’t want to leave. Indeed, many don’t, as I found out on my brief but wonderful stay in and around this North Island gem.

Like most things in New Zealand, it’s worth starting with the geology and geography. As part of the volatile chain of volcanoes that lines the Pacific Ring where the Pacific plate slides under its Indo-Australian neighbour, the area has had its fair share of earth moving and shaking, and the lake was originally a volcanic crater. The last major eruption happened 1,800 years ago (making one 1,100 years overdue) and was so violent that it was recorded in Roman and Chinese history – both rather far away.

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