travel – and so she thinks

Zip World

admin — Tue, 03 Oct 2017 07:55:24 +0000

There’s plenty of ways to see great views in London, but not many are like this. Zip World brought their zip line experiences to the capital – 35 metres above it in fact – to let you take in the scenery whilst you get a thrill. From the height of nine double decker buses you whizz along the 225 metre wire with a view of Big Ben, The Houses of Parliament, the Thames, and more. It’s an exhilarating ride that is made all the more spectacular by the surroundings – although it’s hard to focus on them when you’re careering along at an adrenaline fuelled pace. As playgrounds go, London’s a great one, but the guys also have rides across Europe, including the toboggan-style Fforest Coaster, Velocity, the fastest zip line in the world and the longest in Europe, and even underground rides in the Caverns.

Writing what you don’t know – Paul Cooper discusses River of Ink

admin — Mon, 10 Apr 2017 09:07:34 +0000

‘Write what you know.’ It’s a well used and oft quoted piece of advice for aspiring writers. But consider the role of historical novels, sci-fi sagas and fantasy fiction. How do writers approach these genres and produce work that is set in spaces and places far removed from their experience, yet manage to build narratives that connect and resonate with a modern audience.

Paul Cooper is the author of River of Ink. His debut novel is based on a poet to the King in 13th century Sri Lanka, who tries to use poetic words to unite two warring factions. Working as journalist in the city, and not a king, living in the 13^th century, or au fait with the Sri Lankan world of this time, he was still able to write a compelling, resonant and highly emotive narrative that speaks to audiences of all ages. Much of this success seems to be about combining things you do know – the experience of being a human and its vicissitudes of experience, emotion and life – with those more remote aspects of the period and age.

After hearing his story at the LSE Literary Festival I spoke to him to find out more about how he did this…

How long did River of Ink take you to write, and what was the process like?

River of Ink took the best part of five years to write, from conception to publication. I began with the germ of an idea – the situation of a poet translating a poem for a tyrant King, and finding through the act of translation a kind of rebellious artistic freedom. I spent a lot of time living in Sri Lanka and researching for the novel, and it underwent a great number of rewrites along the way.

Was it Sri Lanka, the historic aspect or fantasy of the stories that drew you in?

I began with that idea for a story, and through writing the novel I fell in love with the ancient Indian epics, the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. They are such incredibly rich stories, full of love and tragedy, and I felt a lot of their power draw me through the writing of River of Ink. I’m also an amateur historian, and there’s nothing more alluring to a historical fiction writer than a blank spot on history’s map. The book is set during the reign of a notorious king known to history as Kalinga Magha. During this time, the monks who had for centuries meticulously recorded Sri Lanka’s history were subject to brutal repressions, and so the period is something of a question mark. The mystery of what happened during this time became something of an obsession. I think historical fiction writers can sometimes exist as a kind of ‘god of the gaps’, thriving like a vine between the cracked bricks of history.

You eventually went to Sri Lanka – what made you decide that it was time to go there?

I went to live in Sri Lanka as soon as I could, once I’d graduated. I don’t believe it’s possible to write authentically about a place without ever having been there. There are so many details and imperceptible atmospheric concerns that are absolutely crucial to writing a believable and surprising setting, without relying on tired orientalist tropes. When I arrived, I’d studied a great deal about the country, and found it incredibly stimulating to finally visit. In some cases, I found myself in quite remote areas, and had to learn to speak Sinhala, the majority language of the island. I was able to explore the ruins of Polonnaruwa, the medieval capital of Sri Lanka, and the setting for River of Ink. Being actually able to walk those ruined streets, and wander through the crumbling rooms of the palace, where pieces of the original plaster still cling to the walls, gave me shivers. It was as if I was walking in the footsteps of my characters and seeing what they might have once seen.

Have you any plans to write another novel?

I am currently finishing my second novel. Hopefully anyone who liked River of Ink will find something to love in this one too!

Were you always creative or literary?

I’ve always loved to read, and I’ve been writing seriously for about 12 years now. I used to enjoy telling stories when I was a child, though sometimes it can be too easy to trace back your current situation to early memories. I’m sure if I was a biologist, I’d trace it back to all the time I spent in the woods near my house, fishing tadpoles from the lake. But I think I have always been in awe of the power of storytelling.

You worked as a journalist for a number of years. How did this way of writing prepare you for your novel, or differ from it?

Journalism is an art I’ve never had much talent for. It’s a job that allows you to travel a lot, which was my primary reason for staying. However it tires out the muscle that allows you to write, and I also find some of the more commercial and quasi-corrupt practises of small-publication journalism to be in some way damaging to the soul. At anything other than the highest levels of journalism, you are often beholden to powerful corporate partners, and feel yourself to be something of a cog in the PR machine.

How can you write about and relate to the experience of a Sri Lankan king from 1215? Your life is very different to this – can writers write about things they have never experienced?

The reason we invented literature is so we can imagine the lives of others – how people might have lived in other situations, other places and other times. Of course to achieve this level of literary empathy, you have to conduct a great deal of research. I would say it is also essential to learn the language of the country you are setting your story in, and develop an understanding of the idioms and metaphorical systems at work. Ultimately if you want to write outside your own experience, you need to approach your work with a great deal of open-heartedness and understanding, and begin from the assumption that despite all out differences of language and culture, humans are very similar once you get down to the level of the soul.

Paul Cooper’s first novel, River of Ink was published in January 2016 by Bloomsbury Ink.

Colour on the commute – London Transport Museum Lates

admin — Thu, 08 Sep 2016 19:29:24 +0000

Like most people in London, I have a mixed relationship with the transport system. Whilst I sigh at the packed commutes, feel exhausted walking between tubes at King’s Cross, and berate the never ending engineering works, I will defend it with passion to anyone else who dares to criticise it. For a system that opened in 1843, goes nearly 60 metres underground, travels 82.5 million km and carries 1.43 billion passengers each year, the underground is quite remarkable. More than 90% of Londoners live within 400 metres of a bus stop, and around half of all UK bus trips take place in London. And few places can also boast trams, river boats and a cable car as part of their standard transport system. Anyone who has attempted public transport outside of the capital soon realises their impatient stomp and sigh at the SIX WHOLE MINUTES until the next train is, basically, ludicrous.

One of the other things I love about this city is the museums. The London Transport Museum in Covent Garden may sound a bit nerdy, but it’s really a celebration of and education in something that keeps our daily lives ticking. At this month’s Late it’s all about colour. There will be talks on the psychology of colour and its influence on behaviour, an explanation of just why the tube lines are the colours they are, art activities based on the iconic roundel, and some more frivolous and fun nail bars, cocktails, and bars. All part of their Designology exhibition, it’s a night that shows how transport is more than just A to B for London, and how much thought and development goes into it.

Adults only, this Friday 9 September 2016 from 6.45, tickets are £12 and available here.

Striding To Svasana

admin — Fri, 20 Nov 2015 11:20:21 +0000

First published on Draze

A thousand feet up, after a steep bit of hiking over undulating paths and craggy rocks, we’re all looking remarkably poised as we stand gazing over Lake Windemere. Usually, twelve mile walks and steep climbs make the shoulders hunch and the legs seize up, but Kevin and Yen seem to have hit upon the magic formula to prevent this from happening – yoga. The husband and wife team run yoga and hiking weekends across Europe, and as we found out on our weekend in the beautiful Lake District, their stretch and march approach is a wonderful balance.

Sixteen of us have signed up, and as we chat on the first night in the bar at the YHA Ambleside, which sits on the water’s edge, it’s apparent that the group are all keen walkers who enjoy an easy amble across the countryside. But the experience of yoga varies from those attending classes three times a week to those having never before set foot in a studio, who believe the rolled up yoga mats to be camping mats.

As we soon see, it doesn’t matter. This weekend is all about the journey, literally and figuratively. As we stand in mountain pose early on Saturday morning and begin our yoga practice overlooking the lake, there’s both an appreciation of the here and now and an urgency to get out and investigate the rolling hills and pretty villages around us. A National Park, the Lake District is one of Britain’s most startlingly beautiful areas and perfect for such a regenerative weekend. On Saturday we follow a loop from the hostel, along the River Rothay and up and along Loughrigg Terrace, where the views make us gasp, before heading on to Grasmere, where the infamous Sarah Nelson Gingerbread fuels us on past William Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage and back to base. Arriving back to homemade scones and tea, we stretch out on the mats before dinner and drinks with the group. Ranging in age, background and ability, it’s refreshing to spend time with people who have a similar curiosity and interest in the world around them and who are prepared to get up and do something about it. The walk has tired most of us out and after a short walk along the lake and a couple of pints of local ale, lights are out pretty early.

There’s something about using and soothing the body that is both stimulating and calming, and we’re all agreed post hike yoga means that our muscles are less tired and achey than normal. Which was just as well really, given that at 7.15 on Sunday morning we are on the mats doing it all over again! Yen has trained locally and in Asia, and her gentle restorative style of teaching is perfect for where we are at this morning. A shorter but steeper walk is on the cards today, up to Loughrigg Tarn with its views across four lakes, before a descent via the impressive waterfall of Skelwith Force. The air bracing up high, and a couple of hours later as we stroll through the valley and lookup to where we have just been, it’s clear why.

It’s tough, but we’re all agreed, more than worth it. The combination of yoga and hiking is energising and relaxing, and in these surroundings makes a perfect weekend break away from city life. Deep breathing and appreciation, being present and at ease with your body – all of these are things that can be found in both practices, and make the two something of ideal partners. Add beautiful views, tasty food and wonderful people, and you can’t go too wrong. On the train home we all swap numbers and vow to meet up again soon – perhaps on a weekend with Kevin and Yen. I certainly wouldn’t say no.

A weekend away with Lakes Yoga Fitness costs from £140 and includes accommodation and food. There are four yoga classes led by Yen, a fully qualified yoga teacher and personal trainer, and there are walks on both days led by Kevin, who is a fully qualified Mountain Leader. Find out more here.

Farmstays – diversifying an industry

admin — Mon, 09 Feb 2015 17:20:00 +0000

I look at how farm stays have helped rural businesses expand, and visit Featherdown Farms in the process. For The Countryman magazine.

Happiest place in Australia?

admin — Tue, 30 Dec 2014 08:52:00 +0000

What does Townsville, Cairns have off to offer? Head to page 40…

Cycling to 'Siberia', wheels to wine

admin — Wed, 29 Oct 2014 10:36:00 +0000

‘So just a kilometre from here is the spot they call Siberia,’ Stuart tells me. ‘It gets so windy there that in September a train was blown off the track and ended up suspended, carriages hanging off like a piece of string.’ I am significantly smaller than a train, balancing on a bicycle, and there is a cyclone coming, funnelled through the Cook Straight by surrounding mountain ranges. This doesn’t sound ideal to me. But then for someone who has travelled around the world, covering thousands of kilometres through Europe, Central and South America, on a bike bought for only fifty dollars (and subsequently sold it on after), and confesses that he loves to ‘feel the pain and achievement’ from a good hill, the Rimutaka Incline, part of the cycle trail by the same name, is nothing. Stuart runs Green Jersey, a cycling tour company out in the Wairarapa, a region just outside of New Zealand’s capital city Wellington, and he’s offered to show me around.
The Rimutaka cycle trail is a 113 kilometre long path that loops around the Rimutaka range, east of Wellington. One of New Zealand’s Great Rides, and a part of Nga Haerenga – The New Zealand Cycle Trail, it takes riders from Petone’s foreshore across the Rimutaka Range to Wairarapa’s wild south coast. Along the way cyclists go through the thickly wooded Rimutaka Forest Parkand, along the gentle gravel trail of the Hutt River, mouth of the Hutt River at the historic site of the Hikoikoi pā, one of the largest Māori settlements in pre-European New Zealand, hills formed by the country’s seismic shifts, rugged farm tracks, right out to the tumultuous seas of Ocean Beach and Turakirae Head, home of the largest seal colony in the Wellington region, and the trail’s end at Orongorongo River.

But we begin with the rail incline – a steep hill that trains struggle with. The Rimutaka Rail Incline is part of an old railway line connecting Wellington and Wairarapa, with 4 tunnels, 2km single track, 6km double track and 15km of unsealed gentle slope on the Hutt Valley side. It runs from Cross Creek in the Wairarapa through to Summit, at the top, funnily enough, the highest point 18km trail, along rugged paths and gritty trails. A particular section, the fell, is famous. The 4.8 km 3 ft 6 in gauge railway line between Cross Creek where we start, and Summit, on the original Wairarapa Line, has an average the grade is 1 in 15, which is pretty steep, as I see from the exhibits at the nearby Fell Museum in Featherston, home to the only remaining Fell Engine in the world. After every downhill journey the brakes on the engine had to be replaced, having been clinging on to the track so tightly, and the worn metal is there for evidence.
New Zealand seems to be going through a phase of turning disused railway lines into cycle trails, right from the Huaraki in Northland down to the Otago trail bisecting the South Island. It’s easy to understand why – scenic and sensible in terms of getting from you a to b, as well as readily routed, the trails are an ideal way to see the country.
Or at least that is what I tell myself at the start of the trail, as Stuart is unloading our bikes and packing our bags full of cereal bars, before we set out on this famous incline. It’s not as bad as I fear. Cyclone Luci appears to have drifted past us, and the main result of the breeze is a delicious scent of grass and trees wafting past. Although at a steep gradient for trains, even my little legs are able to cope, once the gears have kicked in. We’re only going a short way, up to the Summit, but it’s the toughest part – as those train brakes are evidence to.
When we reach the 576 metre Summit Tunnel, we turn the cycle lights on, although we soon switch them off again for fun. There’s something almost existential about cycling towards a hole of light, we no idea just how close other people or objects are to you. The practical and philosophical nature starts to unnerve me a little, and evidently Stuart too, as he suggests that we flick the beam back on again.
At Summit I am rewarded by flushing toilets, hurrah, but more importantly, a sense of achievement. The clouds block most of the view, but it’s rolling hills and farmland all the way from here and through to Cross Creek where the trail opens out in the ‘agricultural breadbasket’ of the Wairapapa.

I’m short on time, so to show me around, Stuart drives me to Ocean Beach, an area of ridged coastline formed only seven thousand years ago. It’s still a workout though, the steep stairs up to the lighthouse leaving us both breathless. We stand for what seem like ages, talking life and love, and cycling – the broad skies and brash waves, white tops pounding the rocks and gusting winds wailing around us seem to incite that sort of big thinking.
As this is just a taster for me, we go and taste: as well as fine scenery, there’s the option of trying some of New Zealand’s finest wine along the way. The Wairapara is known for its Pinot and Sauvignon Blanc, courtesy of low rainfall, hot summers, and long dry autumns, and Green Jersey can either cycle with you, sort a cycling route for you, or pedal you around in their rickshaw as you get slowly sozzled on samples. The main town for the wines is Martinborough, and the tiny spot (only 1330 full time inhabitants, rising to up to 30,000 at weekends) is unique in that all the wineries are accessible from the town centre without a car. Founded by a man named Martin, the roads span out from the centre in the shape of the Union Jack, and are named after places that he had visited – and so it is that Kansas is on a diagonal to Strasbourg, and Cambridge cuts across New York. We stop for tastings and lunch at Poppies.
On the way I ask Stuart why he chose to Poppies. He sighs. ‘Everyone wants to marry Poppy.’ He’s right. I want to marry Poppy, although she is happily wed to childhood sweetheart Shayne, after a chance meeting whilst working at a wedding twenty years after they had parted as teenagers. Standing in the contemporary grey walls that feel comforting with their glorious light bulb chandeliers, piled barrels and grand Italian opera playing, she oozes enthusiasm about the vines, their grapes, and ultimately, their wines. The Pinot Gris in particularly is sweet, fresh, and the perfect accompaniment to a tasting platter which tumbles with stuffed vine leaves, fresh salmon, roasted peppers, homemade hummus, frittata, seared courgettes, and toasted flatbread.

Even without the wine diversion, I can understand why this part of the country is a haven for Wellington weekenders. Windy, steep, and sometimes too much for a train, but beautiful, vibrant, natural and exhilarating for cyclists of all skills. Inhale deeply, press down with the legs, and roll through some of New Zealand’s most beautiful landscape.
There’s a glass of wine waiting at the end.

I travelled with Green Jersey, who organise guided and supported tours along the trail and local wine regions, over one or more days. http://www.greenjersey.co.nz/ Located in the Wairarapa, they are an hour train journey or drive from central Wellington, and can meet riders from the station. They use Avanti Discovery 8 bicycles, and provide helmets, pumps, full repair kits, maps as well as food and all accommodation bookings, depending upon tour choice.

Yoga Gets Social

admin — Mon, 06 Oct 2014 08:55:00 +0000

No pain, no gain. Force yourself. Train mean eat clean. Once exercise was all about the aggressive approach, pushing your body hard, and to hell with your mind, others, or the rest of your life. It was punishment to be endured. And yoga, that was about clearing your mind. Focus. Get on the mat. And tune out from everyone else.

But things are changing, and there seems to be a liberation from this convention. Physical and mental, exercise and fun, solo and social, fun and healthy, zen and zing – this is the era of yoga socials.
http://www.trueyogacollective.com/#/yoga-gets-social/

Local Finds: Norwich

admin — Sun, 28 Sep 2014 08:58:26 +0000

Two nights in Norwich simply wasn’t enough to explore all the art, culture and history that this city has to offer. Staying in The Maid’s Head hotel, the longest running site of hospitality in the country, built on the site of the palace of the early Norman Bishops, and drinking in its oak-lined Jacobean bar, before heading for bed in the Tudor Rooms (where Queen Elizabeth I also stayed) was a heritage-fuelled delight in itself, but there’s so much more to see in this fascinating city, as I discovered…

Christchurch – TNT

admin — Sat, 27 Sep 2014 12:29:34 +0000